subject you enjoy studying: the science of surfing

 

I like to study surfboards. I enjoy it because by understanding its form and objectives I can improve my level of surfing and how I feel the board under my feet. I can help my brothers and friends in recommending their ideal boards for their level, height, weight, type of beach they will surf and their goals.

I have learned about how a board is made, materials, costs, its physics, stories of different shapers in the world.

Before studying it, I thought it wasn’t really important and that the shape of your board or the fins did not matter much, but now I see that it is more than 50% of your surfing that is affected by this.